Wild Swimming in Dartmoor: Pools, Tors and Hidden Rivers
Dartmoor is one of the last genuinely wild places in southern England. Spread across nearly 370 square miles of Devon, it is a landscape of granite tors, boggy uplands, ancient oak woodland and, crucially for those of us drawn to cold water, a network of rivers and pools that have been carving through the moor for thousands of years. The East and West Dart, the Teign, the Avon, the Erme, the Plym — these are not polished, signposted swimming destinations. They are working rivers, subject to flash flooding, unpredictable currents and water temperatures that rarely climb above 15°C even in August. That is precisely why people love them.
Wild swimming on Dartmoor has grown enormously in popularity over the past decade, driven partly by a wider cultural shift towards outdoor health and partly by a handful of books and social media accounts that have made places like Spitchwick and the Dart Gorge genuinely famous. With that popularity comes responsibility — to understand what you are getting into, to respect the environment, and to swim safely in conditions that are quite different from a leisure centre pool or even a supervised open water venue.
This guide covers the best locations, the practical safety considerations, the legal position on access, and the seasonal rhythms that govern when and where Dartmoor swimming is at its best.
Why Dartmoor Rivers Are Different
If you have only ever swum in lakes or the sea, Dartmoor’s rivers will surprise you. The water is peaty and often the colour of dark tea — deeply stained by the blanket bog upstream, which leaches tannins into every tributary. This is entirely natural and the water is clean, but it does mean visibility beneath the surface is often very limited. In a deep pool, you genuinely cannot see more than a foot or two down, which means you cannot assess depth or obstacles by looking from the bank.
The rivers also respond to rainfall with remarkable speed. The moor’s upland peat acts as a giant sponge, but once saturated it sheds water almost immediately. After heavy rain, the Dart can rise by a metre or more within a couple of hours. Rivers that were gin-clear and gently flowing on a Tuesday morning can become dangerous, fast-moving torrents by Tuesday afternoon. Checking the weather forecast — not just for where you are, but for the whole upstream catchment — is not optional on Dartmoor. It is the single most important safety habit you can develop.
Water temperature is another consideration. Even in high summer, Dartmoor’s rivers sit between 12°C and 16°C. In spring and autumn, you are looking at 8°C to 12°C. Cold water shock — the involuntary gasping and hyperventilation that occurs when the body hits cold water suddenly — is a real risk. It can cause panic, disorientation and, in extreme cases, cardiac events. The solution is not to avoid cold water but to enter it gradually, giving your body time to adjust. Wade in from the shallows, splash water on your face and neck before submerging, and never jump or dive into water you have not first tested by entering slowly.
The Best Swimming Locations on Dartmoor
Spitchwick Common and the Lower Dart
Spitchwick is the most visited wild swimming spot on Dartmoor, and on a warm summer weekend it can feel almost crowded. That said, it earns its reputation. The Lower Dart at Spitchwick offers a long, deep pool with grassy banks, relatively easy access from the car park at New Bridge (postcode TQ13 7NP), and water that is sheltered enough to be genuinely enjoyable even in a light chop. The pool below New Bridge itself is excellent — strong swimmers can cross the full width, and there are flatter entry points for those who prefer not to scramble over rocks.
The area is managed as common land, and swimming is well-established here. Arrive early on summer days to find space and parking. Be aware that the rocks around Spitchwick are popular with people who jump from height — some of the jump points are higher than they appear, and jumping into moving river water carries risks that jumping into a still lake does not. The current, even when appearing gentle, can carry a swimmer downstream quickly.
Becky Falls and the Bovey Valley
The Bovey Valley, running north from Bovey Tracey into the eastern moor, contains some of the most beautiful wooded swimming in Devon. The river tumbles through ancient sessile oak woodland that is a designated Site of Special Scientific Interest. There are several accessible pools, particularly around the Hisley Bridge area near Lustleigh. This is quieter than Spitchwick, the pools tend to be smaller and shallower, and the surrounding woodland means it stays cool and pleasant even on the hottest days.
Access to the Bovey Valley is primarily on foot, which naturally limits the crowds. Park at Hisley Wood car park and follow the river path downstream. The water runs clearer here than on the high moor, and in summer the pools can warm slightly — still cold by any conventional measure, but more approachable for those new to open water swimming.
Badger’s Holt and the Upper East Dart
The village of Dartmeet, where the East and West Dart rivers meet, is a classic Dartmoor location and a reasonable starting point for exploring the upper East Dart. Walking upstream from Dartmeet along the east bank takes you away from the car park crowds and into proper moorland. The pools here are smaller but often more dramatic — set against open moorland rather than woodland, with granite boulders creating natural channels and eddies.
The Dart Gorge, accessible from Holne on the west side, is a more serious undertaking. The gorge holds some of the best swimming on the moor — deep, clear-ish pools, dramatic cliffs, and a genuine sense of remoteness — but it requires a reasonable walk in and an understanding of river reading. The gorge section can flood significantly and access is genuinely difficult in places. It is not appropriate for beginners or for anyone who is not comfortable scrambling over wet rock.
Crazywell Pool
Crazywell Pool, situated on the southern moor between Burrator Reservoir and Princetown, is one of Dartmoor’s more unusual swimming spots. It is not a river pool but a flooded former mine working — a roughly oval pool sitting in open moorland with no obvious outlet. The water is extremely dark due to both depth and peat content. Local legend attributes various supernatural qualities to it, which does add a certain atmosphere.
The pool is relatively deep — estimates vary but it is thought to reach around 15 metres in places — and the surrounding moorland means it is exposed and can be cold and windswept even in summer. The walk in from Burrator takes around 30 to 40 minutes depending on your route. Because it is a still, enclosed body of water rather than a flowing river, it behaves differently in terms of water quality — it is worth checking recent reports before visiting, as still moorland pools can occasionally develop algal growth in hot, dry summers. Blue-green algae (cyanobacteria) is toxic and you should not swim in water where it is present. It typically looks like blue-green paint or scum on the surface.
The River Erme and Stall Moor
For those willing to walk, the upper Erme valley offers some of the most remote and rewarding swimming on the moor. Access is typically from Erme Head car park near Ivybridge, and the walk up onto Stall Moor takes you past the longest stone row in the world — over two miles of Bronze Age standing stones running alongside the river. The pools here are small, peaty and cold, but there is an extraordinary quality of solitude. On a weekday in May, you might genuinely swim for two hours without seeing another person.
This is high moorland swimming, which means the weather can change rapidly, the terrain is uneven and boggy, and phone signal is non-existent for most of the walk. Tell someone where you are going and when you expect to be back.
Safety on Dartmoor Waters
Before You Go
- Check the Met Office forecast for the whole of Dartmoor, not just your location. Pay particular attention to rainfall 24 to 48 hours before your planned swim.
- Check river levels if possible. The Environment Agency’s Flood Information Service (check.flood-risk.service.gov.uk) shows gauged river levels across Devon and gives a reasonable indication of whether rivers are running high.
- Tell someone your plan — where you are going, which pool or stretch of river, and what time you expect to be back. If you are going somewhere remote, leave a note in your car as well.
- Never swim alone in remote locations. The risks of cold water incapacitation, a twisted ankle on wet rocks, or a sudden river rise are all significantly more dangerous when you have no one with you.
- Carry a dry bag with a warm layer, a hat and a high-calorie snack. After cold water swimming, the body burns energy rewarming itself, and the combination of exertion and cold can cause blood sugar to drop more quickly than expected.
In the Water
- Enter slowly. Always. Wade in from the bank, let the water rise to your waist, splash your face, and only then push off. This allows the cold shock response to pass before your head goes under.
- Assess the current before entering. Throw a stick in upstream and watch how fast it moves. Even water that looks still often has a significant sub-surface current.
- Identify your exit point before you swim. Rivers with high banks, undercut ledges or slippery rock faces can make getting out significantly harder than getting in, particularly once your hands are cold and grip is compromised.
- Do not swim upstream into blind bends without knowing what is around the corner. Strainers