You are currently viewing Wild Swimming in Dartmoor: Pools, Tors and Hidden Rivers

Wild Swimming in Dartmoor: Pools, Tors and Hidden Rivers

Wild Swimming in Dartmoor: Pools, Tors and Hidden Rivers

Dartmoor is one of the last truly wild places in southern England. Sprawling across 368 square miles of Devon, its blanket bogs, granite tors, ancient oak woods and fast-running rivers have drawn walkers, artists and naturalists for centuries. But in recent years, a quieter kind of visitor has been arriving — one carrying a dry robe and a towel, picking their way along riverbanks to find the perfect pool. Wild swimming on Dartmoor is not a trend so much as a homecoming. People have been bathing in these rivers for as long as there have been people on the moor.

This guide covers the best swimming locations on and around Dartmoor, the practical information you need to swim safely, and the etiquette that keeps these places accessible and unspoilt for everyone who follows.

Why Dartmoor is Special for Open Water Swimming

Most of England’s wild swimming takes place in lakes and reservoirs, where the water is relatively still and conditions are predictable. Dartmoor offers something different: fast, peat-stained rivers that tumble off the high moor through granite gorges, forming deep plunge pools, broad shallow slides and waterfall basins that have been carved over thousands of years. The water is extraordinarily clean by national standards, fed by rain that falls on unindustrialised upland and filtered through granite bedrock and sphagnum moss.

The characteristic amber or dark-brown colouring of Dartmoor water is not a sign of pollution. It comes from dissolved tannins leached from the peat moorland above. The water is typically very soft, low in minerals, and refreshingly cold — usually between 8°C and 16°C depending on the season and the altitude of the pool. That cold is part of the appeal. Regular cold water immersion has been associated with improvements in mood, sleep, circulation and stress response, and there is a growing body of research from institutions including the University of Portsmouth supporting these effects.

Dartmoor also benefits from genuine public access. The Dartmoor Commons Act 1985 grants the public a statutory right of access on foot across all registered common land on the moor, which covers a substantial proportion of the National Park. This, combined with longstanding informal tolerance of riverside access, means that swimming in many of Dartmoor’s rivers is genuinely lawful and uncomplicated — though it is always worth checking the specific situation at each location.

The Best Swimming Spots on Dartmoor

Spitchwick and the River Dart

Spitchwick Common, near the village of Poundsgate in the South Hams, is arguably the most famous wild swimming location in Devon. The River Dart here runs wide and relatively shallow over smooth granite slabs before deepening into a series of pools ideal for swimming. The common itself is open access land, and the grassy banks provide natural changing areas and picnic spots. On a warm summer weekend it can feel busy, but arrive early on a weekday morning and you may have the whole stretch to yourself.

The water at Spitchwick is generally calmer than further upriver, making it suitable for less experienced open water swimmers. There is a natural rock slide where the river narrows, and several deeper pools downstream. The Dart Valley Trail runs nearby, so it is easy to combine a swim with a longer walk through the Dart Gorge. Parking is available in the car park at New Bridge, roughly a fifteen-minute walk upstream along the riverbank.

Sharrah Pool

A short walk south of Spitchwick, Sharrah Pool is a deeper, more dramatic spot where the Dart runs through a narrow granite gorge. To reach it, follow the footpath from New Bridge southward through sessile oak woodland — the walk takes around twenty-five to thirty minutes along a well-worn but sometimes steep path. The pool itself is sheltered, with rock ledges at various heights and a deep central channel. It is a favourite spot for jumping, though swimmers should always check depth carefully before leaping from any height.

Sharrah Pool is generally less crowded than Spitchwick, and the woodland approach gives it a more secretive atmosphere. The gorge can feel cool even on warm days, so a wetsuit may be more comfortable here outside of July and August.

Becky Falls and the Bovey Valley

The Bovey Valley, running along the eastern edge of Dartmoor near Manaton and Lustleigh, contains some of the finest ancient oak woodland in Britain. The river here is smaller than the Dart but no less beautiful, running between mossy boulders and through fern-draped gullies. Becky Falls itself is a tourist attraction with an entry fee, but the valley beyond offers quieter access to the river at various points along the woodland path managed by the Woodland Trust.

Swimming here is best in the broader pools below and above the main fall. The water level varies significantly with rainfall, and after heavy moorland rain the river can rise quickly and become unsuitable for swimming. In dry late-summer conditions, some pools may be quite shallow. The valley rewards patience — walking upstream will reveal progressively quieter and more isolated bathing spots.

Canonteign Falls and the Teign Valley

The River Teign drains the northern and eastern parts of Dartmoor, running from its source high on the moor near Teignhead Farm down through Chagford and the Teign Gorge before reaching the coast at Teignmouth. The middle section of the river, accessible from Fingle Bridge near Drewsteignton, offers excellent swimming in a deeply wooded valley. The walk along the Teign Valley from Fingle Bridge is one of the great short walks on Dartmoor, and the river pools here are deep, clear and wonderfully isolated once you move beyond the most accessible sections near the bridge.

Higher up the valley, near Chagford and the village of Gidleigh, the river is faster and more technical, better suited to experienced swimmers comfortable with moving water. The area around Dogmarsh Bridge near Chagford has long been a local swimming spot, with a reasonable pool and grassy bank access.

Wistman’s Wood and the West Dart

Wistman’s Wood, the famous ancient dwarf oak woodland near Two Bridges, sits above the West Dart River on the high moor. The river here is not a conventional swimming destination — it is fast, shallow in many places, and the pools tend to be small — but for experienced moorland walkers it offers wild, remote bathing in genuinely unspoilt surroundings. The approach from Two Bridges car park is straightforward, roughly two miles return, and the river can be accessed at several points along the way.

Swimming here is best approached as part of a wider moorland day rather than as the primary objective. Water temperatures on the high moor are consistently lower than in the valleys, and conditions can change with startling speed as weather moves across the open moor.

Safety on Dartmoor’s Rivers

Wild swimming carries genuine risks, and Dartmoor’s rivers present a specific set of hazards that differ from lake or lido swimming. Understanding these risks is not a reason to stay at home — it is the foundation of swimming confidently and safely.

Cold Water Shock and Acclimatisation

The most serious immediate risk in cold open water is cold water shock, an involuntary gasping reflex triggered by sudden immersion in cold water. In temperatures below 15°C — which covers most of Dartmoor’s river swimming outside of July and August — entering the water quickly and fully submerging can provoke hyperventilation, panic and, in worst cases, inhalation of water. The response is to enter slowly, allowing your body to adjust. Wade in gradually, splash water on your face and neck before submerging, and take controlled breaths. Most swimmers find their breathing normalises within sixty to ninety seconds of immersion.

After cold water shock, the next risk is the cold incapacitation of limbs. Extended swimming in very cold water progressively reduces muscular coordination in the arms and legs. Most recreational swimmers should aim to exit the water before they feel genuinely cold rather than waiting until they are uncomfortable. In water below 10°C, twenty minutes is a reasonable maximum for most people without a wetsuit.

Spate Conditions and River Levels

Dartmoor rivers respond to rainfall with extraordinary speed. A river that was a pleasant paddling stream in the morning can be a brown, surging torrent by early afternoon following heavy rain on the high moor. Always check the weather forecast before setting out, not just for the valley where you plan to swim but for the entire catchment upstream. The Environment Agency’s Flood Information Service provides real-time river level data for gauging stations across Devon, including on the Dart and Teign, and is worth checking the morning of any swim.

If a river is running coloured (a more opaque, milky brown rather than the clear amber of normal conditions), significantly higher than usual, or louder than expected, do not swim. Fast-flowing moorland rivers can contain submerged obstacles, generate powerful hydraulics at weirs and narrowings, and carry swimmers into gorge sections where self-rescue becomes impossible.

Weirs and Underwater Hazards

Several of Dartmoor’s rivers have historic weirs, leat intakes and mill structures that create dangerous recirculating hydraulics. Weirs in particular can trap swimmers in a recirculating current that is almost impossible to escape unaided, even for strong swimmers. These structures are not always visible from the bank. If you can see a weir or hear the characteristic constant roar of a hydraulic feature, stay well upstream.

Submerged rocks and tree branches are a constant hazard in moorland rivers, particularly after high water. Always check the depth of a pool thoroughly before jumping or diving, even at spots you have visited before. Rocks move in spate conditions, and the pool that was deep enough to jump into last summer may have silted up or changed substantially.

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You are currently viewing Wild Swimming in Dartmoor: Pools, Tors and Hidden Rivers

Wild Swimming in Dartmoor: Pools, Tors and Hidden Rivers

Wild Swimming in Dartmoor: Pools, Tors and Hidden Rivers

Dartmoor National Park sits at the heart of Devon like a raised fist of ancient granite, its moorland plateaus cut through by rivers that have been carving their way downhill since long before anyone thought to give them names. The East and West Dart, the Teign, the Plym, the Avon — these are not gentle chalk streams. They run cold, amber-dark with peat, and fast enough in places to demand your full attention. For wild swimmers, this landscape offers something genuinely rare in southern England: accessible, spectacular, and largely uncrowded open water, set against backdrops of weathered tors and oak woodland that would look at home on a Victorian landscape painting.

Wild swimming on Dartmoor has grown significantly in popularity over the past decade, partly thanks to books like Roger Deakin’s Waterlog and the more practically minded Wild Swimming guides by Daniel Start. But the rivers and pools here have been used by locals for generations — children jumping from granite slabs into the Dart, farmers cooling off after haymaking, walkers stripping down after a long day on the high moor. There is nothing new about it. What is new is the infrastructure of information around it, and the growing need to think carefully about how we use these places responsibly.

Where to Swim: The Best Locations on Dartmoor

Spitchwick and the Lower East Dart

Spitchwick Common, near Poundsgate in the Dart Valley, is arguably the most well-known wild swimming spot in the whole of Dartmoor, and for good reason. The river here runs through a broad, tree-lined bend with natural granite shelving on one bank and a deep central channel. At the right water levels — typically late spring through to early autumn — you can swim comfortably in pools that reach two or three metres in depth. There are natural jumping rocks, and the current is manageable in normal conditions.

Because of its popularity, Spitchwick can become extremely busy on warm summer weekends. Dartmoor National Park Authority manages the common and has installed facilities including parking and public toilets nearby at Newbridge. If you want the place to yourself, arriving before 9am on a weekday in June is your best option. Parking at Newbridge costs a small fee but is well worth it — the 10-minute walk to the main swimming area helps filter the casual visitor from those who have actually come to swim.

Sharrah Pool

A short upstream walk from Spitchwick, Sharrah Pool is accessed via a footpath through ancient sessile oak woodland that clings to the steep valley sides. The pool itself is deeper and narrower than the open reaches at Spitchwick, with a dramatic backdrop of boulders and overhanging trees. Reaching it requires a walk of around 45 minutes from Newbridge, which keeps the crowds manageable. The water temperature here is notably colder than at more open stretches, and the depth at the main pool can be significant — this is a spot for confident swimmers, not beginners. Do not jump from the large boulders on the far side unless you have personally checked the depth, as river levels change considerably with rainfall.

Becka Brook and Becky Falls

The area around Becky Falls near Manaton offers smaller plunge pools and cascades rather than long swimming stretches. These are better suited to paddling and short immersions than serious open water swimming, but the setting — a mossy, fern-draped gorge fed by a tumbling moorland stream — is extraordinary. The Becky Falls estate itself charges an entrance fee, but there are public footpaths along the brook that allow access to stretches upstream without entering the paid area. Water quality here is generally excellent, sourced directly from high moorland with minimal agricultural run-off.

Cranmere Pool

Cranmere Pool is more of a historical curiosity than a swimming destination — it sits at the very centre of the high moor, roughly five miles from the nearest road, and for much of the year resembles a boggy depression more than a pool. It is the site of one of Dartmoor’s oldest letterboxes, a tradition of hiding rubber-stamp boxes in remote locations that predates modern geocaching by well over a century. Reaching it requires solid navigation skills and appropriate footwear; in wet conditions, the surrounding blanket bog is genuinely hazardous. That said, after heavy rain the temporary pools that form across the high moor can offer wild swimming experiences of a very different character — solitary, exposed, and atmospheric in a way that no valley location can match.

Fernworthy Reservoir

Fernworthy Reservoir, managed by South West Water, sits in a conifer plantation above Chagford and offers still, dark water in a sheltered setting. Swimming in reservoirs across England is technically at the discretion of the landowner, and South West Water does not currently permit open water swimming at Fernworthy as part of a formal programme, though the situation regarding informal use is somewhat grey. For those seeking managed open water swimming near Dartmoor, the nearby Roadford Lake has historically hosted open water swimming events through affiliated clubs. Always check current permissions directly with the relevant authority before entering any reservoir.

The River Teign: Fingle Bridge to Castle Drogo

The stretch of the Teign between Fingle Bridge and Castle Drogo (a National Trust property) runs through one of the most dramatic gorges in the south-west of England. The river is accessible at several points, with natural pools forming around bends and below small rapids. The water runs clear over a gravelled and rocky bed, and the combination of gorge woodland, otter sightings, and the distant silhouette of Castle Drogo on the ridge above makes this a genuinely special swimming corridor. Access is via the Teign Valley public footpath, and the National Trust car park at Fingle Bridge provides a reasonable base.

Understanding Dartmoor’s Water

The Peat Factor

Dartmoor’s rivers are peat-stained. The dark, tea-coloured water that characterises the East and West Dart is not an indication of pollution — it results from the organic acids leaching out of the blanket bog that covers the high moor. This colouration means visibility in the water is low, often less than half a metre, which is an important safety consideration. You cannot see the bottom clearly. You cannot see submerged rocks or unexpected depth changes. This makes feet-first entry essential at any unfamiliar location, and jumping into unknown water reckless regardless of how frequently others do it.

Water Levels and Seasonal Change

Dartmoor receives significantly more rainfall than the surrounding lowlands — in excess of 2,000mm per year on the highest ground — and river levels can rise with startling speed following rain on the moor. A river that appeared perfectly swimmable at 10am can be a fast-running, turbid torrent by 2pm if a frontal system has moved through overnight and the moor is still draining. Before visiting, check the Environment Agency’s river level monitoring service, which provides real-time gauge readings for rivers including the Dart at Austins Bridge. The Dartmoor National Park Authority website and the Wild Swimming Facebook groups dedicated to the south-west regularly post condition reports from locals who have been in that morning.

Temperature

Even at the height of summer, Dartmoor’s rivers rarely exceed 16–17°C, and the higher moorland streams and pools can sit considerably below this. Cold water shock — the involuntary gasping response triggered by sudden immersion in cold water — is a genuine physiological threat, not a minor inconvenience. It can cause swimmers to inhale water, trigger cardiac arrhythmias in susceptible individuals, and impair swimming ability within minutes. Acclimatising gradually by entering the water slowly, keeping the head above water initially, and building regular cold water exposure over the season significantly reduces risk. The charity Outdoor Swimming Society provides detailed, evidence-based guidance on managing cold water exposure on their website, and it is worth reading before your first swim of the season.

Safety: What You Actually Need to Know

Before You Get In

  • Always check the weather forecast and river gauge levels for at least 24 hours before your swim, not just the morning of.
  • Never swim alone, particularly in remote locations. The mobile signal across much of Dartmoor is poor to non-existent — Vodafone and EE tend to offer slightly better coverage than other networks in the valleys, but do not rely on it.
  • Tell someone who is not with you where you are going, which specific location you plan to swim, and when you expect to be back. This is basic but often skipped.
  • Scout the water before entering. Walk the bank, look for the exit point as well as the entry point, identify any hazards — weirs, fallen trees, undercut banks, fast water channels — before you commit to getting in.
  • Feet-first entry is non-negotiable in any location you have not swum before. In peaty, low-visibility water, this is doubly important.

Kit Worth Carrying

  • A brightly coloured tow float. These small, inflatable devices clip to a waist belt and trail behind you in the water. They improve your visibility to others dramatically and provide a degree of buoyancy if needed. They are available from most outdoor swimming retailers for under £20.
  • A wetsuit or thermal swim skin for water below 15°C, or for swims of more than 15–20 minutes in Dartmoor’s typical summer temperatures. A 3mm full wetsuit is a practical choice for most moorland swimming conditions.
  • Neoprene boots or swim socks. The rocky, uneven riverbed on Dartmoor is genuinely difficult to walk barefoot, and a twisted ankle at a remote location is a serious problem.
  • A changing robe or dry robe. Not a luxury —

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